Cheat Meal Time: Arugula Restaurant Review

Nestled between a dance studio and an investment firm, Arugula Restaurant can be easily missed when driving down hectic Egg Harbor Road in Sewell, NJ. If you’re lucky enough to make it into the small parking lot, once you enter the tiny restaurant, you may feel as though you’ve walked in to the dance studio by mistake. Arugula’s modern décor is reminiscent of a beauty salon or lounge, but please do not let this deter you from requesting a table. The foyer is separated from the dining room by floor to ceiling curtains in cool green and purple shades, adding to the art deco vibe. Jet black chairs and tables make the space’s modern artwork take center stage, and apart from the fake orchid that poses as a centerpiece, I can’t help but love the relaxed and dark vibe of this restaurant, lighted only by a few magnificent sky lights that shine through the ceiling’s support beams.

Sitting down for lunch on a Thursday, it was pleasantly surprising to see that there were multiple patrons being served adequately by the sole server of the lunch shift, Corrie. This shift sees the restaurant half full, but this quiet afternoon will quickly give way to a full and boisterous dinner shift. Within minutes, we understand why this quaint little space, so easily overlooked from the outside, has a long list of regulars. Within minutes, we are sampling the grilled bread, served with whipped ricotta, fig vin cotto, thyme and sea salt. At $4 for a plate that is enough for 2-3 to share, this is a respectable choice that is outshone completely by Arugula’s appetizers. The Philly cheesesteak egg rolls, served with a cheddar wiz and spicy ketchup left me begging for one more. This was by far one of the highlights of the meal. To be honest, I wouldn’t mind going back just to enjoy a plate of these alone, and at $8, it would be more than worth the trip.

Arugula’s appetizers are so fantastic that they may have set the bar too high for the remainder of the meal. The lobster bisque, while impressively presented tableside with jumbo lump crabmeat, was bland at best, the lobster flavor being completely lost by tomato and cream. Their house salad is nothing more than field greens mixed in acidic vinaigrette, but not much more can be expected. That being said, these are the only negative dishes in the entire meal, and they are easily avoided.

Entrees range from the expected burgers and sandwiches to modern takes on chicken marsala, veal parmigiana, and chicken italiano. The boneless braised short ribs, served with saffron risotto and veal reduction, are a true delight. Serving a smaller portion size is a risky choice, especially given the suburban and mainly traditional geographic. However, it works excellently here, and the infusion of flavor is marvelous. For those who prefer simpler dishes, the Black Angus burger is cooked to perfection and can stand on its own among gourmet burger joints located in the surrounding area. If you decide to opt for a burger or sandwich, it is a must to make the jump to french fries from the standard and forgettable kettle chips. The fries can be coated in sea salt, parmesan-herb or truffle and would pair excellently with a cup of the spicy ketchup, which is easily requested.

For dessert, Corrie recommends the Ghirardelli brownie, served warm with salted caramel gelato and caramel sauce. Dessert is considered by many (myself included) to be the most important part of the meal, and so many restaurants do not deliver on this portion. Arugula is not one of those restaurants. This brownie was a wonderful end to the meal, having been gobbled down in 2 minutes flat. Reiterating my earlier statement, I would make the trip back to Arugula to enjoy the Philly cheesesteak egg roll and the Ghirardelli brownie.

Arugula is BYO, but they do serve select unique wines by the bottle from the local Auburn Road Vineyard and Winery, including the “Mad Anthon’s Chase” spiced apple wine. Bottles range from $15 to $22, with half bottles being served at $10. Despite a few minor setbacks during our meal, Arugula easily gained two more regular patrons out of my companion and myself. A treasure in Sewell, Arugula has the potential to become a contender with Philadelphia’s best Italian cuisine. To anyone who is fortunate enough to experience the ambiance and fare that Arugula has to offer, I have two words: egg rolls.

Arugula Modern Italian Cuisine

373 Egg Harbor Road, Sewell, NJ 08080; 856-589-0475; arugularestaurant.net

EVENTS Chef Tasting Tuesdays, Wine-it-up Wednesdays, holiday tasting menus

RECOMMENDED Philadelphia cheesesteak eggrolls, caprese panini, Ghirardelli brownie

PRICES $2 to $18, all major credit cards accepted

OPEN Tuesday-Thursday 11:30am-2:30pm, 4-10pm; Friday 11:30am-2:30pm, 4-11pm; Saturday 4-11 pm; Sunday 10am-2pm, 4-9pm; closed Mondays

RESERVATIONS Highly recommended for dinner, private room available for parties of 6 or more

ALCOHOL BYO, with wines available for purchase by the bottle

ALSO AVAILABLE Catering, Banquets